This FAQ can be found at http://www.toad.net/~rrubel/outbackfaq.html. Any additions or corrections are always appreciated.
6. 2000 Outback
7. 2001 Outback
8. 2005 Outback (coming soon)
8. My auto transmission keeps downshifting on downgrades
1. How should I break in my new Outback?
2. What oil/gear lube/etc should I use?
3. Is a K&N air filter really worth the money?
4. What are the torque specs for major parts?
5. What about lowering my OB or using a GT suspension?
6. I want to increase my Outback's performance...
7. What about aftermarket replacement parts?
8. My windshield is always streaking on the inside.
9. What options do I have for wheels, other than the stock 15"?
Glad you asked! The Subaru Legacy Outback is a crossbreed car that's been designed to meet the needs and desires of today's buyers. It was created to appeal to those people who want the ruggedness and AWD abilities of a Sport-Ute but who do not want the poor ride, bad gas mileage, and large step-up of a normal Sport-Ute. The car features AWD (type varies with transmission), aggressive looks, more ground clearance than a normal passenger car, and a large interior space. It also gets over 25 MPG on the highway and rides more like a sport sedan than anything else. It can also outperform a Sport-Ute in many accident-avoidance and bad-weather manouvers, and independent testing by IMSA has shown that it is even better on bad terrain than other compact Sport-Utes.
INTERNET:
BY PHONE:
IN PERSON:
There's been some debate recently on the net over whether Subaru has the right to this title or not. In the author's opinion, it's valid because Subaru in effect created the name "Sport Utility Wagon" - therefore, its definition is whatever Subaru wants it to be. Marketing, yes, but effective. Factually, consider the following - the vast majority of 4WD and AWD vehicles built before the 1970's were trucks. We may call them Sport Utes now, but they were TRUCKS. In the '70's, the AMC Eagle wagon might have a claim to the title, except for the fact that it was a car on a car chassis with 4WD. The Outback is built more like a Sport Ute, with a more rugged suspension and frame. In addition, it may be hard for the Eagle to even be the first AWD WAGON - Subaru introduced the AWD Leone for the 1972 model year.
The Outback seems to be a collection of weird and funny-sounding phrases. I'll try to define most of them here. If I've missed something, please email me and ask for a definition. If you disagree with something, also let me know, and tell me (politely!) what you think the proper meaning is. Many definitions are copyright Subaru of America, from their training lierature.
AWD - This drive configuration engages all four wheels at all times to drive the vehicle. 5-speed Subaru models use a viscous coupling center differential to determine the power split from front to rear wheels. AWD Subaru models with the computer controlled 4EAT transmission use a hydraulic multiplate transfer clutch to determine front to rear power split. While viscous coupling systems operate in a "passive" mode only, the 4EAT's computer monitors driver inputs to work in an "active" mode. This helps prevent slippage before it occurs.
Antidive - A designed-in front suspension characteristic that converts braking forces in the suspension links into a vertical force that reduces the tendency of the front of the car to drop or dive during hard braking.
Boxer Engine - Engine type that features cylender heads at a 180û angle to each other, recognised for high performance in a compact layout with a low center of gravity for improved handling. The engine provides extremely low vibration.
Center Differential - a differential used in AWD and 4WD systems to distribute power between the front and rear axles.
Dual Diagonal Braking System - A brake system that is split to increase braking stability and prevent complete failure in case one or more components lose hydraulic capability. System splits with one front and the opposite-side wheel in each part of the system.
Electronically Controlled Automatic Transmission - Microcomputer-controlled automatic transmission that slects shift characteristics based on data from electronic sensors which measure speed, engine load, and environment.
Limited-slip Differential (LSD) - Differential that can direct power away from a slipping wheel to a wheel with better traction. It is very effective on slippery or icy roads. The 2000 and newer Outbacks have a limited-slip rear differential either as part of the optional cold-weather package (std. Outback) or standard (Outback Limited). Normal "open" differentials direct power to the wheel with the least amount of resistance. If you've got one wheel on ice, THAT'S the one that'll be spinning. Annoying, right? Enter the LSD, which directs a portion of the power to the opposite wheel - which hopefully has better traction.
Multiplate Transfer Clutch - Clutch used on electonically-controlled 4-speed automatic transmission-equipped AWD Subaru models which controls the amount of front-to-rear torque split. It is operated by the Transmission Control Unit.
Passive Rear-Wheel Steering - Corrects the natural tendency of the rear wheels to "toe out" (steer to the outside of a turn) while cornering to help the suspension react precisely to steering input. When lateral forces increase on the rear wheels (in tight turns or evasive maneuvers), the rear wheels turn into the corner slightly for improved stability.
Stabilizer Bar - Component linking both sides of a suspension (front, rear, or both) to reduce body roll and improve overall handling characteristics, particularly when cornering. Device is usually a torsion bar mounted with rubber bushings to allow it to move freely.
Tongue Weight - Amount of trailer weight pressuring down on, and supported by, the hitch ball of the tow vehicle.
Torque - Term used to describe a twisting or rotating force, such as the rotating force generated by the crankshaft or applied to a bolt when tightening it.
Torque Steer - In a FWD vehicle that has unequal-length halfshafts (axle shafts or driveshafts), the tendency for the car to pull to either side under acceleration. It is caused by the imbalance of torque between the different-length halfshafts.
Unit Body - (unibody) Body construction that incorporates the chassis floorpan and body structure as one unit, rather than requiring a full-length fraome to provide structural strength or support for mechanical components. Some unibody cars may employ subframes for mounting the engine and transmission.
Viscous Coupling - A torque transfer method employing a series of clutch plates surrounded by a silicon fluid that rapidly becomes very viscous (thick) when it is heated to a certain temperature. The friction caused by a slipping wheel, which makes one axle shaft rotate faster than the other, causes the fluid to heat up, becoming thick and locking the differential. As a result, both axles (and thus both wheels) turn at the same speed, sending the power from the wheels that slip to the wheels that grip. This is an integral part of the center and rear differentials on certain Subaru AWD models (such as the 5-speed Outback).
There is no real one answer to this, because different people have different ideas of what "better" means. This section will explain how the different AWD systems work, and give *MY* opinions as to which is best. Please realize, too, that these systems are completely different from the 4WD systems used in older Subarus. Many of the older full-time 4WD automatic vehicles had power 100% to the front until a slip was detected, in which case torque was moved around. Full-time 5-speed vehicles used limited-slip rear differentials and manually-locking center diffs to help distribute power. At some point during the '90's, Subaru stopped calling their vehicles Full-Time 4WD and started calling them AWD. I don't believe the name change and technology change occured at the same time.
5-speed: This is a simple, mostly mechanical system. Torque is split 50-50 front/rear, and that never varies. Why? It's logical - the front axle gets the torque from the engine and shares it with the rear axle via a viscous coupling. Unless the rear diff were to bypass the front diff in some way (extra clutches, another attachment to the engine, etc), it could never have more torque than the front. The viscous coupling in the center diff acts as an automatic differential lock to ensure that the rear diff always gets the same amount of torque as the front - if the front slips, the rear compensates by NOT slipping.
Automatic - This is arguably one of the most complex AWD systems currently on the market, certainly the most complex on a low-to-mid-end vehicle. The transaxle itself contains an additional set of clutch plates to distribute power between the two axles via computer control. The split is usually 90/10 in favor of the front, but when the computer senses slip it can move as much as 50% of the torque to the rear, making it 50/50 like the manual transmission model. The torque is moved back and forth constantly as the computer senses slip and grip. The reason for this is to prevent binding or causing slip - if a wheel or axle that didn't have power suddenly got it without releasing power from the opposing wheel, the car would get pushed harder by the wheel with higher torque and would lose control. One exception to the 90/10 rule: if the transmission is placed in REVERSE or 1-LOW, the split is 50/50.
Incidently, the 90/10 split is the reason why the automatic gets the same gas economy as the manual - since the auto is essentially a mostly FWD car under normal conditions, less energy is lost through the AWD system.
I'm going to give the following opinion: the better transmission depends on your usage and driving habits.
MANUAL: Get this one if you love driving manual transmission, plan on doing serious off-roading (you have more gears to play with), or plan on driving the car hard on twisty roads (the 50-50 split helps traction more in this case). Also, if you want to tow the car flat behind a camper, this is the only transmission for you...
AUTOMATIC: Get this one if you do a lot of city driving, plan on towing a lot, or just want to relax while driving.
Franz Seifert submitted his own observations about the different transmissions which he made while test-driving both models.
And the burning question in everyone's mind... is power transferred from SIDE-TO-SIDE, as well as front-to-back? The answer depends on the year and model of your Outback. There's no limited-slip rear diff in any Outback prior to the 2000 model year and no brake use when a wheel slips a'la the Mercedes ML320 or BMW X5. There *is* a standard limited slip rear differential on Outback Limited made for 2000, and the LSD is also part of the quite useful cold-weather package option on the standard Outback. Can this be retrofitted to the older models? Unknown at this time...
The 1995 Outback was a normal Legacy with a special trim job and some usually-optional features standard. No more, no less. It had the roof rack, Active Safety Group option (AWD/ABS), and fog lights (the projector type, not the headlamp type of the current model). It also had the grey cladding on the sides and bumpers, but not the aggressive front and rear or the extra clearance with larger wheels. It did have a nifty "OUTBACK" logo on a tire treadmark that I wish they'd kept... that does live on in the Impreza Outback Sport.
The 1996 Outback was an almost completely new vehicle. Starting with the same raised-roof Legacy chassis, Subaru raised and tuned the suspension for offroad use, used a beefier subframe, put on 15" wheels, added a speed-sensitive steering and optional 2.5l engine, and replaced the projector lamps with those large headlight-type fog lights. Interior changes included a second power outlet in the back, a rubber cargo mat, special floor mats with the Outback logo, and an optional cold-weather package that gave heated mirrors and seats and an engine block heater. NOTE: In the past, I have stated that the 1997 underbody protection panels (skid plates) cannot be used on the '96 models. THIS IS INCORRECT. A new source told me they can, and I was indeed able to install a front and rear plate on mine with no difficulties - it's about a 5 minute job after the car is raised.
1996 stats *
|
Speed (mph) |
0-30 |
0-40 |
0-50 |
0-60 |
0-70 |
0-80 |
0-90 |
0-100 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Time (secs) |
1.7 |
4.0 |
5.9 |
8.8 |
12.4 |
16.4 |
21.2 |
29.7 |
|
Top speed |
127 mph | |||||||
|
Quarter mile |
16.6 @ 80.4 mph | |||||||
|
Slalom |
60.0 mph | |||||||
|
Lateral acceleration |
.78 g | |||||||
* Stats reprinted with the kind permission of Robert C. Bowden. Check out his auto-review site...
So tell me more about the car!
Ok... you asked...
|
ENGINE |
2.5l / 150 ci |
2.2l / 136 ci |
|
Ignition |
Distributorless |
|
Bore x Stroke |
3.92x3.11 " |
3.8x2.95 |
|
Compression |
9.5:1 |
|
HP |
155 @ 5600 |
135 @ 5400 |
|
Fuel Delivery |
Seq. MPFI w/ dual-spray inj. |
|
Torque |
155 @ 2800 |
140 @ 4400 |
|
| |
|
Valvetrain |
DOHC 16v |
SOHC 16v |
|
Alternator Outp |
12v, 85a |
|
Mileage |
20/26 |
22/29 |
|
Oil capacity 5sp |
4.4q |
|
GEAR RATIO |
(auto) |
(5-speed) |
|
" " 4EAT |
4.7q |
|
1st |
3.027 |
3.545 |
|
Coolant capac. |
6.3q |
|
2nd |
1.619 |
2.111 |
|
Fuel capacity |
15.9g/15 usable |
|
3rd |
1.000 |
1.448 |
|
Brakes (f) |
10.9" dual-calip vented discs |
|
4th |
0.694 |
1.088 |
|
| |
|
5th |
|
.871 |
|
Brakes (r) |
10.5" discs |
|
FINAL |
4.44 |
4.11 |
|
park. brake |
rear drm in disc |
|
Curb Wt |
3230 |
3080 |
|
Turn Radius |
37.6 ' |
|
Suspension (f) |
Macpherson / lower L-arm |
|
|
Coef. of Drag |
.37 |
|
* heavy duty |
|
|
Towing Cap. |
2000 lbs | |
|
Suspension (r) |
MacPherson / dual parallel link |
|
|
|
|
|
*heavy duty |
|
Colors |
Mica Ruby |
Deep Sapphire | |
|
Wheels |
6.0JJx15" |
|
|
Spruce Pearl |
Glacier White |
|
Tires |
205/70 SR 15 |
|
|
|
|
The 1997 Outback starts where the 1996 left off, and makes things better. The 2.5l engine is now standard, and also now available with the manual transmission. It also puts out an extra 10 HP and 7 lb-ft of torque due to solid lifters vs hydraulics and a redesigned air intake system (first solid lifter mainenance is scheduled for 100k miles). Peak torque comes at much higher RPM, though, so there is a tradeoff, but gas mileage increases to 21/27 as well. Also new for 1997 is the Outback Limited, which features a leather interior, weather-band radio and power antenna, new logos and body-colored door handles, exterior "gold trim" package with 5-spoke wheels vs. 6-spoke, interior fake woodgrain trim, and standard cold-weather package. The Limited is also available in several different colors from the normal Outback - black, bright Sydney blue, and bright Rio Red (a Limited in black is at the top of this page - the new logos can be vaguely seen on the front door and grille). 1997 models also have improved side-impact protection, a door-ajar telltale system that actually SAYS which door is ajar, rear-seat headrests, red dials on the instrument needles, and some options that cannot be mated to 1996 models. The exterior has a new logo on the front grille and a hood scoop that actually functions to cool the engine. Finally, the power door locks have been redesigned - there's now a button to lock/unlock everything, and the driver's door lock only works itself. The key only works the driver's lock, and the remote keyless entry functions differently as well - a quick click on UNLOCK unlocks the drivers's door only. HOLD DOWN the unlock button for three seconds, though, and everything unlocks. LOCK still locks all doors. I have no information on whether adding a new keyless module to a 1996 Outback will also give these capabilities. On an odd note, the speedometer now only goes to 120, vice the 140 of 1996. Hmmm...
A new addition to the Subaru lineup will be the Forester, which shares many similarities to the Legacy Outback, but will be shorter and taller. I haven't decided if I will add the Forester to these pages (same with the Outback Sport). Anyone who's willing to do some writeup on either model, feel free to do so and send it to me. I'll put it in its own section.
Subaru is concentrating on the Forester this year, so there is little change across their other model lines.
The '98 Outback Limited is available with dual power moonroofs as an option, HOWEVER: for whatever reason, the sunroofs are not available on the manual transmission models. The Limited model will also get a better solar-tinted windshield, and darker tinted windows all around except for front doors. The Limited badge is moved from the roof to the middle of the front doors, and the gold stripe along the roofline also drops to follow the fender flares and door line. Also new is a really cool-looking CD/Cassette/AM/FM stereo, with upgraded speakers (8 of them, the new pair mounted high on the D-pillars). The now-standard cold-weather package loses the engine-block heater (still available as an option) and gains wiper de-icers. The wiper de-icers have a switch next to the seat heater switch.
"I just bought a '98 Outback and was curious what the wiper de-icer feature was all about -- I could not see any visible "melting" going on when I turned it on, so I decided to check this out. I had my wife squirt my hand with washer fluid -- not at all warm. I touched the blades -- not warm. Then I spotted a black strip about 2" wide along the base of the windshield -- the place on the windshield where the wipers "park" when they are turned off -- nice and warm!!! This strip heats up similar to a rear-window defroster. So I guess the idea is that if you turn the de-icer on it will melt the wiper blades free from the windshield and also melt away any ice on the blade edge."
Additionally, the OB Limited gets the door courtesy lights, lighted vanity mirrors, and the variable intermittant front wiper like the GT, woodgrain trim around the climate control console, and a new lower body color - Sandstone Metallic! This replaces the Slate Gray Metallic as the Limited's second color. There are also nets behind the front seats for holding maps and junk. These features begin to really differentiate the Limited from the standard Outback.
A weather-band radio is now standard on the regular Outback, which also gets a new fabric pattern, more of a zig-zag instead of straight lines of color. Different 6-spoke wheels replace the original ones as well. On the micro-front, the knob on the end of the radio antenna is now larger and ridged for easier deployment, and the graphics on the guages have been brightened and given a sort-of drop-shadowed look.
Both get a new overhead map-light/storage bin (good for sunglasses and the like), and some small cosmetic changes - the cup-holder, while in the same place, has a different release mechanism and room for a larger beverage container on the driver's side, and the headlamps have been redesigned to use reflectors in front of the bulbs, similar to what Honda has in the Accord (I'm told they're called "multireflector"). Not sure how this affects the bulbs themselves.
Note that the sunglasses holder is not available if you have the moonroofs on the Limited. Also not available with the moonroof are the center roof rails - there's an additional warning against allowing cargo to rest on the roof.
Want to see something odd? Look in the 1998 brochure at the black Outback Limited in front of the nice mansion. Look at the sunroof - looks like only one, with central roof rails behind it. Now check out the red Limited on the next page that showcases the sunroofs. No rails...
Steve Satch also mentioned a listed EPA mileage of 21/26. Can anyone explain the drop from '97? Late note - the drop is only for the auto... 5-speed continues as 21/27.
Optional leather seating surfaces are now perforated to breathe better; IMHO, they also look more expensive that way. Limited standard leather is still non-perforated.
1998 pricing, courtesy of Kelly's Blue Book and Lit Wong, who told me it was there...
DEALER SUGG.
INVOICE RETAIL
PRICE
WBT Wagon 5D................................. 20183.00 22495.00
Destination Charge......................... 495.00 495.00
------------------
BASE MODEL PRICE WITH DESTINATION CHARGE..... 20678.00 22990.00
(Mfr's. Effective Date 5-27-97)
Note that this is UNCHANGED from 1997, though not all incentives and rebates carry so final price may be higher.
New for 1999: The Outback SEDAN. Subaru calls this an SUS for "Sport/Utility Sedan". Not very original, but certainly capitalizing on a good idea. This is a 1999-model year vehicle, but it's going on sale in February of 1998... The sedan was test-marketed at select New England dealers this past year and looks like a winner. It has all the specs of the Outback wagon (ground clearance, suspension, etc) but with the body of the Legacy sedan. Three pix from the 1998 Detroit Auto Show... notice the slight differences in the grill and fog lights, and the SUS badging on the trunk.
The SUS has been released as of early February (coinciding with the end of the Detroit Auto Show), and is currently available at dealerships everywhere. However, since Subaru isn't considering it an Outback (so far, only Outback Sport, Outback, and Outback Limited make up the differentiated Outback line), I'm not going to devote much space here.
Other changes for the line include making keyless entry standard for both LTD and STD Outbacks, and a few new colors: LTD gets Winestone over Sandstone, and STD gets Quick Silver and Rio Red, both still over grey. The LTD also has a 30th anniversary edition, with auto transmission and the dual moonroofs standard. Prices are holding at the '98 level, even with added content. The DOHC engine remains standard. Both transmissions receive some tuneups for smoother shifting. There's also a new spray system for the front wipers that spreads farther, and the standard keyless gets a *much* nicer remote (looks like the old one about as much as an iMac looks like a 7500...).
*IMPORTANT NOTE* All Legacys manufactured after 10/97 have depowered airbags and re-calibrated front seatbelts. As the new airbags are designed to work with, rather than instead of, the shoulder belts, it is even more important to buckle up. These bags are not retrofittable to the older models.
From _Car and Driver_, Oct. '98: " Changes are coming later in the model year to Subaru's 2.2 liter and 2.5liter four-cylinders, to help boost low-and midranger torque. The engines will share a new head design, which means the 2.5-liter will lose a couple of camshafts. The new heads feature an increased 43-degree valve angle, roller rocker arms , and screw-type value-lash adjusters(replacing the shim-type adjustment). The intake ports on both engines were massaged to increase tumbling of intake air during cylinder filling. Horsepower is unchanged on 2.5-liter, but torque rises by four pound-feet. The 2.2-liter gains five horsepower and four pound-feet of torque. An electronic makeover is coming for Subaru's four-speed automatic. The transmission's hydraulic valves will be replaced with electric solenoids. The new transmission computer uses a new speed sensor on the torque converter for more accurate shifting control. The changes allow a reduction in parts in the tranmission and make it 33mm shorter. "
Also new for '99, but not available to us mortals, is the Outback Special Services Vehicle (SSV). This is a slightly decontented Outback aimed at law enforcement, fire, and rescue services and priced at $19,995 (a few grand below the normal base Outback). Its features include white paint only, no roof rack, no keyless, no radio, no speakers, and no antenna, but with auto transmission and the cold weather package standard. It's a special dealer order, with proof of eligibility required. All other features appear to be there, though - power everything, the 2.5l engine, the same wheels. So if you see an Outback with a lightbar, smile and wave...
On January 5, 1999, Subaru officially unveiled the new North American '00 Outback Wagon and Sedan. While the rest of the world had been able to purchase the wagon since earlier in 1998, no one had seen the sedan until now. The first two pictures show the Outback wagon, while the third shows the front of the sedan (pictures courtesy Jason Packovich )
The new Outback represents a total redesign underneath the skin while keeping with the Outback philosophy of driving anywhere with the maximum of safety. New features include:
SAFETY:
PERFORMANCE:
COMFORT/CONVENIENCE
GEEK DETAILS
Cars have started to appear at dealers, and pricing is in line with the '99's - a couple hundred dollar increase, which easily covers new standard features. Most existing features such as standard keyless entry have been carried over, and the sedan gets a moonroof. The wagon continues with the dual moonroofs, which have been moved slightly to give what looks like a continuous sweep of glass. The foglights have been redesigned to be more powerful (and hopefully more protected).
While this interior is of a pre-production model, the actual insides are nearly identical.
Subaru goes upscale in a big way with the introduction of two new Outback models, a new engine, a new kind of AWD, and a host of other luxury and performance enhancements.
The 2001 model year sees the return of the 6-cylinder engine to the Subaru lineup. This new powerplant produces 212 HP @ 6600 RPM and 210 lb-ft of torque at 4400 RPM out of just under 3 liters (183 cu. in). It's got direct ignition, eliminating the need for both a distributor AND spark plug wires. It's DOHC, 24-valve, and runs on 87 octane. And it measures only eight TENTHS of an inch longer than the 2.5l 4 cylinder. In addition, the new system features a dual-stage intake and variable-volume muffler, plus chain-driven camshafts (no more breaking belts! chains usually have a MUCH longer life).
This engine is at first only available in the two high-end Outbacks - the new L.L. Bean Edition and the H6-3.0 VDC - and will initially be automatic-only. Both new models include automatic climate control with ambient temperature guage, dual power moonroofs, 8-way power driver's seat, standard side airbags, Momo-designed mahogany and leather steering wheel, heated front seats, rear seat center arm rest, remote keyless entry, and a new design of 16" alloy wheels. Passenger air bages are dual-power, and the front belts have electronic pre-tensioners.
L.L Bean Edition
In addition to the above, the L.L. Bean model also adds the standard AWD, special L.L. Bean insignias inside and out, an auto-dimming rearview mirror w/compass, an air filtration system, standard CD player, LSD rear diff, and the security system.
H6-3.0 VDC Edition
In addition to the very long name (I think Subaru has won the 'most letters on the rear deck lid' contest hands down), the H6-3.0 VDC adds a new kind of AWD - Variable Torque Distribution (more below), Vehicle Dynamics Control (VDC - more below), all-wheel/all-speed tractin control (more below), and a McIntosh audio system (11 speakers and a sub).
The VTD AWD system has a true planetary gear center differential and hydraulic transfer clutch plus a 45/55 standard torque distribution (yes, it's biased towards the rear!). The torque can be varied as conditions warrent.
VDC works with the AWD and TCS to keep you going where you want to go at all times. It takes inputs like steering angle, yaw rate, lateral g-force, and speed of each individual wheel (probably from the ABS sensors). Using that data, the VDC can tell whether the car is going where the driver is steering it. It can then correct for oversteer and understeer by applying split-second brake pressure to the appropriate wheel to bring the car back into line. Automatically. It can also call for more power to the front wheels, and even shut down multiple fuel injectors to reduce power (can this system be turned off? Don't know...).
The TCS applies braking force to a spinning wheel, regardless of what speed the car is travelling at, to move torque to the opposite wheel which hopefully has more traction. It, too, can reduce power by cutting fuel injectors. The upshot of this is that the vehicle only needs one wheel with traction in order to move.
It's important to note that the Outback applies these three systems specifically in the order listed in order to keep control. Only if the AWD isn't enough will traction control come into play, so there should be no excess usage of brake pads...
Geek note: All these systems communicate using a Controller Area Network.
Fuel economy and pricing have not been set, and curb weight is up to over 3700 lbs for both these cars. Coefficient of drag is a nicely low .32, not bad at all for a wagon with roof rack.
Changes to the other Outback models are not yet available.
Specs:
|
ENGINE |
3.0l / 183 ci |
|
Ignition |
Distributorless direct |
|
Bore x Stroke |
3.51 x 3.2" |
|
Compression |
10.7:1 |
|
HP |
212@6000 |
|
Fuel Delivery |
Seq. MPFI w/ dual-spray inj. |
|
Torque |
210@4400 |
|
| |
|
Valvetrain |
DOHC 24v |
|
Alternator Outp |
NA |
|
Mileage |
NA |
|
Oil capacity 5sp |
NA |
|
GEAR RATIO |
(auto) |
|
" " 4EAT |
NA |
|
1st |
2.785 |
|
Coolant capac. |
NA |
|
2nd |
1.545 |
|
Fuel capacity |
16.9g |
|
3rd |
1.000 |
|
Brakes (f) |
11.4" dual-calip vented discs |
|
4th |
0.694 |
|
| |
|
5th |
|
|
Brakes (r) |
11.3 discs |
|
FINAL |
4.11 |
|
park. brake |
rear drm in disc |
|
Curb Wt |
3700+ |
|
Turn Radius |
36.7' |
|
Suspension (f) |
Macpherson / lower L-arm |
|
Coef. of Drag |
.32 |
|
* heavy duty |
|
Towing Cap. |
2000 lbs | |
|
Suspension (r) |
multi-link/ 1 upper, 2 lower, 1 radius arm per side |
|
|
|
|
*heavy duty |
Colors |
Mica Ruby |
Deep Sapphire | |
|
Wheels |
6.5JJx16" |
|
Spruce Pearl |
Glacier White |
|
Tires |
225/60 R16 |
|
?? |
?? |
This question has been raised by people who want to pull an Outback behind a motor home. Recently, Subaru has changed its position of "never" to the following:
Manual-trans AWD: All-Wheel Drive vehicles can be towed with all four wheels on the ground and the transmission in neutral. Never tow with only two wheels on the ground or two wheels on a dolly.
Automatic-trans AWD: All-Wheel Drive vehicles cannot be towed with any wheels on the ground. The vehicle can only be towed on a trailer with all four wheels off the ground.
Our survey says... YES! Provided that you have a 1996 or newer, that is... In the owner's manual for the 1996 model, the section entitled "Driving Tips" is outdated. According to reps at Subaru, the manual went to press before they had all the details written (specifically, it includes the sections from the 1995MY manual). The 1997 manual is correct, and addendums are supposed to be mailed to 1996 owners (I eventually got mine as part of the mass mailing).
For those of us with 1996 models, the relevant pages from the 1997 manual regarding off-road use:
"All wheel drive distributes the engine power to all four wheels. In formal driving, however, an AWD vehicle operates almost the same as other vehicles with front wheel drive. AWD vehicles provide better traction when driving on slipper, wet or snow-covered roads and when moving out of mud, sand, or dirt.
Because of the AWD feature, your Subaru can be driven on ordinary roads or off-road. But please keep in mind that an AWD subaru is a passenger car and is neither a conventional off-road vehicle nor an all-terrain vehicle. If you do take your Subaru off-road, certain common sense precautions such as the following should be taken:
Remember that damage done to your Subaru while operating it off-road is not eligible for warranty coverage."
According to the Fall issue of "DRIVE", 1996 Outback owners should receive this section in the mail. I received mine in the last week of October 1996.
The Outback owner's manual recommends 92+ octane gasoline for the 1996 model. However, several owners (myself included) have found that the car runs just fine on 87 octane. In fact, I got less MPG using two tanks of 93 than I do with 87. The engine should never ping because the engine management computer will retard spark when it senses premature detonation. Only side effect is supposed to be less power and poorer mileage. I notice neither of these. Other owner experiences are welcome...
Note that the 1997 and newer Outbacks only requires 87 octane gas...
I myself get between 21 and 22 mpg with mixed highway/city driving, usually around 70 mph on the highway. Best mileage I've gotten, however, is only 24 - 2 less than the rating for the 96 on the open road. A co-worker gets 25, but one Internet owner only gets 13... Does anyone out there actually get what the car is rated for? The Edmunds car page states that the 1996 automatic Outback gets 22/28. I'd like to know where they got their figures...
Update - on a recent 300 mile road trip, I got almost 28 MPG at 75-80 MPH. No A/C, no windows down, cruise on, and 87 octane gas. It can be done. I now have slightly over 12000 miles on the car. Conversely, a reader wrote to tell me he's only getting 13-14 MPG in city driving in California using oxygenated gas. He has under 4k miles at this time.
More recent update: With over 30k miles on the car, I consistently get 21-22 mpg in mixed, and 27+ with highway-only driving, regardless of speed. Seems it takes a lot of gas to get the car moving, but once it reaches speed it cruises fairly efficiently.
Finally, it's been pointed out that even though the two transmissions have identical EPA ratings, the manual should consistantly return closer to the maximum and the automatic closer to the minimum.
Some people have noticed an empty fuse-holder under the hood labelled "FWD" and have asked me what it's for. It's gone over in the owner's manual, but a short explanation is that inserting a fuse in this holder will render the car FRONT WHEEL DRIVE ONLY. This should only be used in emergencies, for towing or dyno testing or other short-term conditions like driving on the donut spare tire. Note that this fuse only exists in automatic Outbacks.
The Subaru automatic transmission is programmed for minimum emissions. This includes the odd behavior of NOT locking the torque converter until the transmission and engine temps exceed a set level. The upshot of this is that when it's *very* cold out, it may be a while before your transmission appears to shift into top gear. It's actually already in overdrive, but there's an additional fuel-saving measure called a "lockup torque converter" that, while in overdrive, actually locks together the input and output shafts of the transmission so that it almost acts like a manual clutch. You can see this behavior by watching the tach while cruising. A medium press on the accelerator will cause what feels like a downshift, but the tach will only jump a few hundred RPM. Let up on the gas, and it drops back down. When in any other gear but overdrive, lightly pressing the accelerator will cause the RPM's to jump up, and letting off the gas completely will cause them to drop almost to idle. When the transmission is locked, the RPM's will stay at cruising level when you get off the gas. This has the added benefit of making power instantly available instead of having to wait for the transmission to catch up to the engine again.
In *extreme* cold (-30 F), your transmission may not even shift into 4th gear until warm.
Some people have complained of excessive wind noise from their roof racks at speeds above 40 mph. There's one simple thing to check - the crossrails may be facing the wrong way. They are shaped like an airplane wing, and the FAT part should face forward. You might also try moving the front rail back a bit. As a point of info, mine don't whine until above 90 MPH.
8. My auto transmission keeps downshifting on downgrades
Subaru added a 'grade control logic' program to the auto transmissions for '99 and newer models to help slow the car during long descents. In '99 the program was quite aggressive and would downshift inappropriately and race the engine. Halfway through the model year, Subaru replaced the TCU (transmission control unit) with one employing a less-aggressive profile and this helped reduce complaints. I have been told that any '99 car can be refitted with the new program free-of-charge.
We don't know, except that Subaru says "She's a Linda Kowslowski look-alike"
Unknown, but the whole ad campaign cost $17 million and yielded a greater than 50% consumer recognition. By contrast, Ford, which spent over $120 million on the Taurus ads, has less than 30% recognition for its troubles.
1. How should I break in my new Outback?
Subaru recommends driving at varying speeds for the first 1000 miles and avoiding heavy braking. This is probably the best course of action to follow, with a few notes:
a. It's a good idea to change your oil for the first time at 1000 miles to remove any metal particles left from machining the engine. Subaru does NOT use any special break-in oil or additives, so there's nothing to fear from changing oil too early.
b. Don't pull any heavy loads for the first few thousand miles, as this may place a strain on new seals and gaskets.
c. Avoid flooring it for the first few K miles except in emergencies. I've seen it written where you should break in the car as you plan on driving it, but most sources say a gentle break-in is still the best.
d. It will probably take 8000 miles or more to fully break in the 2.5l engine. This seems excessive, but it also appears to be most people's experiences - the gas mileage doesn't really increase until after this point. It took 12,000 miles for one vehicle, but after that his mileage went from 19-20 to over 23 in mixed driving on a '96.
2. What oil/gear lube/plugs/ etc should I use?
a. Engine oil. Subaru recommends 4.8 quarts (with filter change) of10w30 dinosaur oil as engine oil in '96 Outbacks, and 5w30 in newer ones. They neither recommend nor prohibit synthetics, which is a bit of a cop-out if you ask me. I run 10w30 synthetic with no ill effects, and others run as low as 0w30 synthetic with no problems. I'm probably going to move to a 5w30 synth. with my next change to get the better viscosity on starting, but somehow 0w30 seems too extreme for me. Remember that even though synthetics allow for increased time between changes you still need to change the filter regularly (I change it every 3k miles, and the oil every 10k) and top off the oil reservoir as needed. Late note: After using 5w30 synthetic for about 30k miles in my '96, I've switched back to 10w30. The lighter oil was causing valve noise as the engine warmed.
b. Differential and manual transaxle fluid.
API GL-5 SAE 80w-90 gear oil. 3.7q for the front of a manual, 1.5q for the front of an auto, and 0.8q for the rear of both. Synthetics are available and have been used with reasonable success. No major differences in power or anything have been noted.
c. Auto trans fluid.
Subaru wants 10q for a full refill in 2.5l engines, and 8.4q for 2.2l engines. Change the fluid and filter only, and you'll add about 4 quarts. Use Dexron II or Dexron IIE ATF; Mobil1 also makes a good synthetic fluid that has helped smooth shift-shock for many owners.
d. Brake fluid.
Subaru doesn't recommend changing from the recommended fluid to silicon or anything else. They call for DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluids.
e. Spark plugs.
The 2.5l engines use very expensive NGK plugs, model PFR5B-11. This equates to a platinum plug with a heat range of 5. 2.2l engines use BKR6E-11's.
3. Is a K&N air filter really worth the money?
In my opinion, yes. A K&N or other non-disposable filter breathes better than a conventional paper filter, and is much cheaper over the life of a car than buying Subaru disposables at $10 a pop. I've noticed slightly better power at higher RPM's after installing mine. Only caveat is to remember to clean it once a year or so.
4. N/A
5. What about lowering my OB or using a GT suspension
The main difference between an Outback suspension and that of the other Legacys is that the seats for the struts/shocks are higher and the springs are a different rate. It's possible to replace the springs and struts with that of a Legacy GT (or any aftermarket part so designated) BUT the stock OB wheels and tires will rub on the seats. Using OEM GT 16" wheels takes care of that problem. For a complete writeup from someone who's done it, see this page.
6. I want to increase my Outback's performance...
Several simple and relatively inexpensive parts can add a small bit of increased performance to your Subaru. Costs are what I've seen for the item, gains are usually manufacturer claims.
a. K&N air filter. This oiled-cotton filter claims to pass more air but less dirt than your OEM paper filter. It requires occasional maintenance, but is essentially permanent. Cost - ~$35. Gain - 2-4 hp
b. Complete intake w/cone filter. This replaces the entire intake tract of your car from the fender to the manifold. Allows much more air to flow than the panel filter, with far less restrictions. However, some brands have possibly reduced performance. Also, engine noise can be greatly increased. Cost: $100-$250. Gain - 5-15 hp.
c. Underdrive pulley. This replacement for the stock crank pulley (fits on the very front of the engine, drives accessory belts) is lighter and/or smaller than the stock pulley. This gives the benefit of the engine revving slightly quicker plus losing less power to the accessories. Your AC may not blow quite as cold, and your alternator may not produce as much power (people with high-power stereos take note). A lighter-but-same-sized pulley has less benefit but none of the potential problems. Smaller pulley also requires new belts. Can mildly increase gas mileage as well. Cost: $125 - $250. Gain: 10 hp+? Dale Teague claims one took almost 2 seconds off the 0-60 time of his 2.2l auto Legacy sedan.
d. Higher-flowing exhaust. These are available from a simple muffler replacement to a complete system with headers, cats, midpipes, and muffler. Can show a very definite increase in power, with usually an equal increase in noise (though a good system will increase power withOUT a lot of noise). Cost: $300 - $2500. Gain: 2-30 hp.
e. Synthetic fluids. Many people claim that replacing the engine oil with synthetics (especially Mobil 1 0w30) and the drivetrain fluids with their equivalent synthetics will gain power and fuel economy since the engine doesn't have to work as hard to pump oil or overcome resistence in the drivetrain. Cost: $20-$100. Gain: ??
f. Lightened flywheel (manual transmission only). Replacing the stock flywheel with a lighter one will allow the engine to rev up more quickly and accelerate faster. However, the lighter the flywheel the less of a flywheel effect it has. The flywheel helps keep the engine spinning while you're shifting, and a lighter one allows the engine speed to drop more between shifts. This can make shifting a bit more awkward, especially on passengers. Cost: ?? Gain: ??
8. My windshield is always streaking on the inside.
On new cars, this is caused by outgassings from the vinyl dash and interior. Cleaning the windshield with a good ammonia-free glass cleaner when this buildup occurs will help immensely, though it will have to be done every few weeks when the car is new.
9. What other options for rims do I have?
Mark Bergman reports:
Just got word that the Impreza Sport steel wheels (195/60-15) fit the Outback with no problems. For those of us who live in the snow, here is a cheaper solution to a spare set of alloy wheels. Also, Tire Rack often has takeoffs of the 15" standard Outback rim for about $60 each.
My plans for this section are to detail the things to watch for specifically when buying a used Outback. If anyone's gotten burned by something, or found some specific item to look at, let me know.
Things to look for:
1996 MY:
- remember that the 5-speed comes with the 2.2l only this year.
- the 2.5l is only 155 hp (but torque peak is lower) and recommends 92+ octane.
- crank seal (where crankshaft exits block to power oil pump) is prone to leaks around 50-55k miles. This can be expensive to repair as the whole front of the engine must come off. Look for low oil level and possible blow-back onto front of exhaust y-pipe and catalytic converter.
- heated mirrors and remote door locks are hand-wired rather than via a harness. Loose connections may occur more easily.
- interference-design engine... if the timing belt breaks, things will come apart in a hurry. Update: I was reminded that the 2.2l engine is still a NON-intereference design, which is a good thing.
- last year for hydraulic valve lifters. Some ticking is normal on cold starts, but if it continues when engine revved then suspect low oil pressure (bad pump/pump seals). Not too bad to fix.
- recall on alternator
1997 MY:
- crank seal (where crankshaft exits block to power oil pump) is prone to leaks around 50-55k miles. This can be expensive to repair as the whole front of the engine must come off. Look for low oil level and possible blow-back onto front of exhaust y-pipe and catalytic converter.
- shims used for adjusting valve lifters. Should be serviced every 100k miles ($$$).
- new cylinder coating causes minor ticking on cold starts. THIS IS NORMAL.
- reports of abnormal clutch wear.
- several recalls, most important for leaking CV grease. Look for grease splatters on catalytic converter and just inboard of wheelwell liner. Possible smoke after hard driving as grease hits cat converter.
- interference engine
- recall on alternator
1998 MY:
- screw-type adjusters for lifters. Much easier to service.
- reports of abnormal clutch wear.
- interference engine
- from Joseph Kral - incorrect clearance on engine wrist pins causes knocking on startup and thereafter. There's a tech bulletin.
- recall on alternator
1999 MY:
- interference engine
2000 MY:
- NON-interference engine
- second year of use for phase-2 SOHC 2.5l engine, but first in Outback