This page is designed to offer advice and suggestions on how to do simple repairs/upgrades to your Legacy Outback. In no way is it meant to replace a good mechanic, and I take no responsibility for the accuracy of anything on this page.

NOTE: This is an outline of what will appear. Few links are active yet. If anyone has anything to contribute beyond what's here, please email me...

1. Replacing the stock stereo

2. Removing door panels (for adding tweeter kit, door grips, etc)

3. Replacing horns

4. Aligning headlights

5. Changing oil/diff lubes

6. Adding a subwoofer to the cargo area

7. Installing Subaru keyless entry or alarm

8. Installing alternatives to the factory front cup holders

9. Installing Wood Trim

10. Torque specs and other data

Replacing the Stock Stereo

Horn Replacement

(under development)

I found that the stock single horn wasn't loud enough to warn off people travelling at highway speeds, so I decided to put in a pair of them instead. This turned out to be easier than I thought, because there is already wiring and a bracket for the horn on the driver's side, just in front of the battery. I asked my service department for a bolt to fit, and they dug an extra out of their parts bin at no charge.

Subarus use a horn that is normally grounded through the bolt, rather than having two leads (power and ground). I found that I was able to create a grounding wire to run from the ground lug of a two-terminal horn to the bolt so that I could use either type.

Adding a Subwoofer to the Cargo Area

(a version with illustations is forthcoming)

From: Walter Clark

I added a 12" subwoofer and amp in the spare tire well to fill in bottom end. It involves a little work but you dont have to give up anything. I spent one solid day making and fitting everything then a couple days painting the new spare cover.

- Re-install the spare upside down: Flip the spare tire over (so the outside of the rim is facing down). Doesn't work real well with that cone shaped tower that holds the nut does it? I cut the tower off within about 1/2" of the spare well floor and made a round wood plug about 2" long about the diameter of the center hole of the spare rim. Set in the remains of the old cone location this should not quite reach through the center hole in the spare rim when installed upside down. Then pulled the rubber plug from under this spot, and installed the plug with generous amounts of silicone rubber sealant. Then I drilled a 3/8" hole down the center of the plug, ran a bolt (something like 3/8" x 3") through a large shoulder washer, then up from under the car thru the plug and secured it with a nut that I cranked down into the plug. To clamp the spare down I hammered another large shoulder washer into a cup-like shape (maybe 3/8" deep) and dropped this over the bolt with the depression down once the tire was in place. I put a second nut onto the bolt, tightened lightly then cut the excess bolt off. Now you have about enough depth to permit some subwoofers to install flush with the cargo floor facing up. I chose a JL Audio 12W1-4 which also matched well with the available volume of the space.

- Make a new cargo floor: The existing molded cargo floor/spare cover isnt rigid enough and doesnt seal well enough to hold a subwoofer. I made a new floor from a sheet of 3/8" plywood. Actually I doubled the plywood for a 3/4" thick floor. I used 3/8 because I wanted to flush mount the subwoofer but didnt have enough depth in the spare well (with the tire) to mount it from the bottom, and I didnt want to lose any more vertical space in the trunk than necessary so the top board lays OVER the spare well and the bottom board is about the same size as the well. I actually mounted the speaker on the bottom of the top board (the bottom boards speaker cutout was larger than the top board. Thus the new cover resembled the original in that it both overlaps the spare tire well to create a floor and projects a bit down into it for strength. I hinged the new spare cover to a brace already in place across the front of the cargo area (which already had depressions stamped in for hinges). I also added rubber gasket material everywhere around the edges and made a wood lip to support the new lid (and allow a seal) along the rear of the spare opening. I lock it down with a pair of slide pins for your average fence gate or shed door. To lift it I added a swing-away handle. I also put several coats of enamel over a primer base to seal it and avoid problems that might occur with the thing getting damp. To protect the driver I put 4 1/4" x 1" steel straps across the subwoofer opening and I try to remember not to jump on or put a knee there.

- Finishing it up: Other than wiring, a couple other things I did include cutting the carpet padding away from just over the subwoofer. The foam carpet backing doesnt seem to reduce the speakers output much so I left that. I also added some rubber gasket material on top of the metal straps because the speaker caused the carpet over these to vibrate and the contact with the straps resulted in a buzz when playing. I bought everything I needed at Home Depot.

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wood trim kit

From: Rick Sochon

There are two wood trim kits.  One for the radio/cd player surround, and
one for the power window switches and shifter.
    The power/window shifter kit is the easier of the two to install.
For the power window switches not on the drivers door, merely pry off
the old trim using a small screwdriver. Attached to the back of the trim
a window switch.  Remove the switch by carefully prying out the four
plastic tabs.  Snap the removed switch into the new wood trim switch
surround.  Snap the wood surround into the door panel.
    For the drivers door the installation is even easier.  Just snap out
the switch trim panel with a small screwdriver.  The five switches stay
in the door.  Snap the new wood trim in place of the old.
    For the shifter trim, remove two screws at the front opening of the
armrest cover.  Snap the now freed panel over the parking brake.  Turn
the ignition key to unlock the shifter and move it to the 'N' position.
The second half of the center console trim can now be snapped out.
There are no screws.  Pop out the black plastic shifter surround and
snap in the wood trim panel.
    Now is the best time to install the radio/CD wood surround since you
need to remove the center console trim for access.  Start by pressing
the tab at the rear of the cup holder and remove the cup holder by
pulling it out.  You will see two large and two small screws under the
cup holder.  Remove the two large screws.  Squeeze the dummy plug for
the ash tray or remove your ash tray.  Two screws are visible at the top
of the ash tray opening.  Remove the two screws.  This is much easier to
do with the center console trim removed.  Pry off the trim panel. It may
stick around the cigarette lighter or 12 v accessory socket. Remove the
electrical connector from the back of the lighter/12 v socket.  Remove
the lighter/12 volt accessory socket by turning the back of the socket
counter clockwise.  Transfer the lighter/12 v socket to the wood panel.
Replace the wiring plug.  Snap in the new panel and replace the four
screws.  Put back the cup holder and ash tray/plug.  Snap in the two
center console panels remembering to place the shifter in 'N' for
clearance.  Two screws under the armrest cover completes the job.

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Torque Specs:

(I make no guarantees to the accuracy of these numbers; they're only as good as my automotive source. Use at your own risk)

[01] -- Refer to Cylinder Block Assembly and/or Cylinder Head Assembly for procedure and specifications.

[02] -- Inch lbs.

[03] -- Castle nut may be tightened an additional 60deg. to align cotter pin

Component	Torque/Ft. Lbs.
A/C Hoses	13-23
Adjust Power Steering Screw Locknut	22-36
Air Bleeder Screw (front)	5-6
Air Bleeder Screws (rear)	5-6
Axle Nut	137
Ball Joint Pinch Bolt	33-42
Baffle Plate	43.2 [02]
Brake Caliper	36-51
Caliper Body Retaining Bolts (rear)	12-17
Caliper Guide Pin (front)	33-40
Caliper Guide Pin (rear)	16-23
Caliper Lockpin (front)	25-30
Caliper Support (rear)	34-43
Caliper Support To Steering Knuckle (front)	51-65
Cam-Angle Sensor	43.2 [02]
Camshaft Sprockets	54-61
Center Bearing To Body	35-42
Center Exhaust Pipe To Front Catalytic Converter	22-29
Center Exhaust Pipe To Hanger Bracket	22-29
Center Exhaust Pipe To Rear Exhaust Pipe	9-17
Connecting Rod	32-34
Crankcase Halves	[01]
Crankshaft Pulley	66-79
Cylinder Head	[01]
Disc Brake Rotor Splash Shield	7-13
Driveplate	51-55
Driveplate To Torque Converter	17-20
Driveshaft Nut	137
Engine Mount	40-61
Engine Mount To Crossmember	14-24
Engine To Transmission	34-40
Engine To Transmission (Lower Nuts)	34-40
Engine To Transmission (Right Side Bolt)	34-40
Exhaust Pipe To Cylinder Head	18-25
Flywheel	51-55
Front Disc Cover (brakes)	4-10
Front Exhaust Pipe To Front Catalytic Converter	19-26
Front Exhaust Pipe To Cylinder Head	18-25
Front Exhaust Pipe To Engine	19-23
Hub Nut	137
Inner Tie Rod To Rack	51-65
Lefthand Lower Camshaft Support	7
Lefthand Upper Camshaft Support	12
Lug Nuts	58-72
Oil Pan	43 [02]
Oil Pump	56 [02]
Oil Separator Cover	56 [02]
Oil Strainer	7
Oil Strainer Stay	7
Performance Rod	33-42
Pitching Stopper Bracket	27-31
Pitching Stopper (Body Side)	35-39
Pitching Stopper (Bracket Side)	25-40
Pitching Stopper Rod To Body	35-49
Pitching Stopper Rod To Engine Or Transmission	33-40
Power Steering Pump	22-36
Power Steering Line Fittings To Valve Housing Lower	7-12
Power Steering Line Fittings To Valve Housing Upper	7-14
Pressure Plate	[01]
Propeller Shaft To Companion Flange	17-29
Radiator	9-11
Rear Crossmember To Body	40-61
Rear Transmission Mount To Rear Crossmember	9-17
Righthand Camshaft Support	12
Rocker Arm Assembly	9
Rocker Cover	43 [02]
Rocker Shaft	43 [02]
Service Access Hole Cover	43 [02]
Service Access Hole Plugs	46-56
Speed Sensor	14-29
Starter Motor	34-40
Steering Gear Retaining Clamps & Bolts	35-52
Steering Pinion Shaft To Steering Torque Rod	10-14
Steering Rack Hydraulic Line Flare Nuts	7-12
Steering Rack Retaining Clamp Bolts	35-52
Steering Shaft Pinch Bolts	15-20
Tensioner Bracket	17-20
Tie Rod End Locknut	51-65
Tie Rod End To Steering Knuckle	18-22 [03]
Timing Belt Covers	43 [02]
Timing Belt Idler	26-32
Timing Belt Tensioner	26-32
Timing Belt Tensioner Adjuster	17-20
Transmission To Engine	34-40
Transverse Link To Front Crossmember	43-51
Transverse Link To Stabilizer	14-22
Torque Converter	17-20
Universal Yoke	16-19
Valve Housing To Rack	14-22
Water Pump	[01]

Engine Specifications:

Ignition Timing	Timing BTDC: 20°
Spark Plug Gap	0.041 inchs
Thermostat Opening Temperature	173°F
Radiator Cap Relief Pressure	13 lbs.
Power Steering pressure	142 psi.
Minimum Power Steering Relief Pressure	1067 psi
Maximum Power Steering Relief Pressure	1138 psi
Power Steering Fluid Flow	1.9 GPM @ 1000 RPM
Power Steering Fluid Flow	1.3 GPM @ 3000 RPM
Fuel Pressure	34-38 psi

Alignment:

Caster Angle Limits	+2 1/12 to +4 1/12 degrees
Caster Angle Desired	+3 1/12 degrees
Camber Angle Limits	-7/12 to + 5/12 Degrees
Camber Angle Desired	-1/12
Toe-in (+)	0
Toe-out (-)	0

Disc Brake Specifications

Nominal Thickness (front)	0.94
Nominal Thickness (rear)	0.39
Minimum Refinish Thickness (front)	0.87
Minimum Refinish Thickness (rear)	0.335
Lateral Runout (T.I.R.) (front)	0.0039
Lateral Runout (T.I.R.) (rear)	0.0039
Caliper Bore Dia. (front)	2.252 inches
Caliper Bore Dia. (rear)	1.500 inches